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Being the sometimes adventures of Clint and Charleen Lovell, motorcyclists
of Brisbane, Australia

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18-04-10

Around Oz

Where we are in 2010
Hint: select All Days

Around Oz Day 30-31 20-21 March 2010 5km

Sorry but this is not very exciting. I've been lazing around Kununurra trying to get a little less back pain. It is improving with every day.
Yesterday evening there was a reception at Nadeen's gallery for some visiting scientists so I went along to help out where I could. Had to sit down a lot though.
We ended up being invited out to the PumpHouse restaurant for dinner with them all. Had a great evening discussing local issues with a Professor of Biology, a DNA expert and several other academics. Along with some old friends from our tour-guide days in the Kimberleys.
It was a pretty good night.

Anyone passing through Kununurra should not miss Lovell Gallery or The Pumphouse Restaurant. Shameless plugs.

I also went for a short ride today and managed OK so I will be on my way in the morning. Not too early and probably not too far. Keep an eye on the SPOT.

Around Oz Day 29-30 18-19 March 2010 0km

I'll be delaying my departure from Kununurra for a couple of days. Here's why:

Thursday - a nice relaxing day in Kununurra. I got to have a good look at Nadeen's gallery and marvel at the big painting. This is the second huge one she has done, the first now hanging in the Perth Convention Centre.

There is a small exhibition being held this weekend with an art competition and the subject is protest. Our Queensland cane toads have made it in to Kununurra and local wildlife is under threat. Fires have been a problem, the main one being co-called control burns getting out of control. These and several other local grievances are being aired this way. A good way to get the messages across. I'm always one for a peaceful protest and this one looks good.

So we were setting up on Thursday night and Deena's car and trailer was loaded up with easels and paintings. We had to wait for a local church group to vacate the hall being used, then cart the stuff in.
Reaching in to the car to pick up a painting I felt a slight twinge in my lower back. Damn. A pulled muscle for sure. But I kept working, after all, the easels and paintings were hardly heavy work. By the end of the evening I was quite sore.
Back home late, a couple of anti-inflammatory pills and a hot shower and off to bed. I'll be right in the morning.

I wasn't. I couldn't move without a screaming pain piercing the lower back. This is not good. Nadeen got up and we were discussing hospital visits as I tried to sit down on a chair. Suddenly she began to say she didn't feel so good and before the sentence was out she had collapsed and cracked her head on a wall corner on the way down. She was out cold.

Now I just HAD to move. I tried hard and ignored my pain and went over to her and was about to put her in the coma position when her eyes fluttered and she came to. But she was bleeding from the head and had been out to it. I staggered to the phone and hit 000. By the time I got the message through, Deena was sitting up and a bit dazed.

So we had a two-for-one deal ambulance ride to the local hospital where they took good care of Deena and - eventually - me. After all, I was still standing and hadn't been unconscious. I was standing because I just could not sit down, the pain was excruciating, worst I have ever had.

The doctors eventually came on duty and demanded Deena stay in all day for observation and I got some pills, a prescription and shown the door. Thankfully I got a sympathetic taxi driver because it took five minutes to get in and out at the other end.

After a while the drugs began to kick in and I managed to drive to the shops to get my prescription filled. Then home again, dope myself up, demand my back to fold up just enough to sit in a comfy leather chair and I have stayed there all day.

I even managed to go pick up Deena at the hospital and we had a quiet evening.

So I will be staying in town for a few days until the inflammation dies down enough for me to ride again.

Around Oz Day 27-28 16-17 March 2010 2725km

After the previous day's misadventures I was determined to be a little more circumspect when it comes to fuel. Keep it topped up just in case. Turned out to be a good idea.

The morning riding out of Mount magnet was quite pleasant. Cool and clear. The road at first familiar up through Cue to Meekatharra was a part Charleen and I often travelled during our tour operations days. It hasn't changed much in ten years. Wide, flat and the occasional enormous gold mine.

From Meekatharra north was new to me and for a while it wasn't much different. The few hundred to Newman went quite quickly. Fuelled up there before the town and then the GPS was telling me to turn right to Marble Bar. I dutifully followed, but only for a few hundred metres before I saw the 380KM DIRT ROAD sign. A quick U-turn, probably to the amusement of the driver of the triple-trailer road train I had just overtaken. No way on this bike.

Back and turn north again and there were no more such disconcerting signs. But there was a big raincloud to the north. Ah well, Temp was 38C by now so a bit of wet should be nice.

I made a quick stop to make sure the camera was in a sheltered cover, any other exposed stuff on the bike didn't matter and ploughed in. There was a blast of very hot air just as the rain started to hit the windscreen and then it cooled dramatically. I watched the temp gauge go from 38 to 23 in a matter of a minute. The rain was cool and inviting - even if a little wet.

Got through the storm quite quickly and it remained cool with small storm cells all around for quite a while, but nothing hit me again for a while. I was dry in ten minutes.

The countryside had changed from the wide flat to the south. I was now in iron ore country and the road wound through the dark red hills and valleys. The green foliage and occasional glimpse of blue sky made up the primary colours in stark contrast.

I enjoyed riding through this part for quite a while until the low fuel warning light came on again just as I approached a roadhouse. Nice.

From here it was pretty flat again all the way up to where this road, Hwy95, reached good old Hwy1 near Port Hedland. Nothing much on that stretch, just puttin' in the kays.

Port Hedland is a busy place. Lots of traffic contrasted with the very few vehicles I had seen the last few hours. In the distance I could see lots of ship-loading facilities and there is a pall of red dust over everything. This iron-ore ship-loading town is not a tourist town so after another refuel I continued on. Ahead of me was the long stretch to Broome, around 600km of pretty straight road with just a few roadhouses to keep you going.

It was only 136km to the first one at Pardoo but I did the 'right" thing and topped up. I could theoretically now make it to Broome. I did consider stopping there for the night but that would make it an even longer day tomorrow. Perhaps at Sandfire, which was another 150km up the road and closer to the half way point to Kununurra.

Arriving at Sandfire well after sunset, everything was quite dark. In the headlights I picked out the fuel bowsers, a makeshift set of dongas and a burnt-out shell of a roadhouse. Nothing for me there and if anyone was around, they must be asleep. Lucky I had topped up at Pardoo.

I continued on into the night for another hundred kays to a roadside pull-in. It had a shelter and ground-toilet. There were a couple of campervans already there. One huge motorhome had pulled up right beside the shelter to use it as their own personal balcony. Nice for them. Pity about anyone else.

However there was a large block of bare concrete stretching our from the shelter which was perfect for me. I put the bike on the centre stand, blew up the mattress beside it and spread the sleeping bag and lay down to watch the myriad stars wheel slowly overhead. At 30C it was too warm to be actually in the bag. If it did happen to rain, the motorhome people were going to get a visitor. Luckily for them, it didn't.

After six hours blissful sleep I awoke and got under way pretty early - still dark and almost made it to the next roadhouse before running out of fuel. Only 5km away so I had no worries with the extra fuel going in. Got to the Roebuck roadhouse at 5am and it was closed. No mention of opening times so I decided to go in to Broome to see if they had a 24hr servo. it was 72km out of the way, 36 each way, but it was that or sit around swatting flies for two hours.

Shell Broome was open so I filled up, grabbed a bite, had a phone chat with Charleen and was back past Roebuck while it was still closed.

The day was warming up already so keep going was the order of the day. Much cooler at 110kph than zero, but it was dragging a lot of moisture out of me. I consumed more than a litre each stop for fuel just to make sure.

Fitzroy Crossing, Halls Creek and stop for an ice cream at Warmun, affectionately known as Turkey World when we used to do tours from there to the Bungles. All was pretty quiet on the scene as the tourist season has not yet started. The road in to the Bungle Bungle Ranges usually doesn't open until April.

Then it was the last couple of hundred kays in to Kununurra where I was greeted by my big sister Nadeen who supplied me with air conditioning, a cooling shower and a beer. Lovely. We haven't seen each other for quite a while so we chatted well in to the night.

So today, 18th, I am sitting in her beautiful and cool art gallery (Lovell Gallery) and catching up on my photos and this blog. Here's the photos.

Ready to go from my digs at Mt Magnet Grand Hotel - Names can be deceiving.

Lotsa long straight stuff

But the skies were wonderful today

Capricorn Roadhouse at Newman - Start of iron ore mining country. Lots of large loads use the roads in this area.

The roads are very good, probably for the above reason

The rain was very welcome.

Stark reds dominate the countryside

All these hills are full of the ore, it is just concentrated here and there

More road!!

Hey look - another vehicle - a rare sight

Out past Pt Hedland and heading north-east - a devil of a long way to go

Quite a few cattle right up to the sides of the road. I needed to keep an eye out, but they are mostly oblivious to the traffic and don't startle.

You always know you are in the Kimberleys when these trees are around. They are all full of leaves at this time of year.

One road hazard not to be messed with. I pulled up for this photo and as I got closer it reared up on its back legs and ran away at great speed.

Big storm just off the road. I only got a few sprinkles from it as I went by.

From Halls Creek to Kununurra the road is a lot more interesting.

That's the Argyle diamond mine in the distance

The cane grass is growing madly. In a few months this will all turn brown and be a fire hazard.

The beautiful Ragged Range. One of my favourite lookouts. Hard to find though.

Close-up of part of the range

Great backdrop for a pose shot

Approaching Kununurra

Around Oz Day 26 15 March 2010 - 579km

Lost my riding Buddy today. Took Charleen to the airport and we had some breakfast together before her long flight.

Then it was around to Cranky's to pick up my extra gear, the camping gear and extra fuel and tools I hope to not use.

Off to the Honda Shop for a service and a new rear tyre. First disappointment was there was no tyre. Oh, they had a replacement OEM but I was after a 70 series (larger profile) to make the bike better. I have about 7,500km to go so the original tyre should do it, but I'll have to keep a close eye on its wear and tear.

I finally got under way about 12:30pm. Try to get a few kays in for the afternoon.

I fuelled up at Upper Swan, just outside Perth and headed North. First goal is Kununurra and visit my big sister Nadeen and see her art gallery for the first time. It is a major tourist attraction in the town, but a whole new gallery since I was last there back in 2000.

At Muchea (pronounced Moo-Shay) I made the final decision to take the slightly shorter inland route rather than follow the coast. Charleen and I have done the coast road many times so this is something new for me. So far the road is in excellent condition, much better than the coast road and travelling is easy.

Although the weather was quite hot, around 36C, I ran into a small cooling shower. No reason for the wets, it was nice and the GPS showed I was only going to graze the heavier rainstorm to the west.

I passed through New Norcia with all its monasteries, Dalwallinu, then Wubin went by I and was sure I had enough fuel to get to Paynes Find to fill up. First mistake.

I overtook a wide load at the exact time another wide load came the other way. On this lonely road where you only see an oncoming vehicle every half hour or so, what were the chances of that?

The fuel warning light came on about 15 kays out so no worries. Pulled up to the pumps and there were two bikes already there. The two riders came out of the shop with sad looks on their faces. "No fuel mate." "er - WHAT??" "They've run out and the pump is broken. No fuel today and they don't know when."

Bugger! The two blokes were pulling into the accommodation to stay the night and see what they could do in the morning. It was 148km to Mount Magnet and my fuel light was on. Only one thing to do and that was give it a go.

So off I set with the cruise set on 80kph to conserve fuel - it was still 36C so it was going to be a long ride. Attempting to calculate the unknown, I wasn't sure how much more I could get out of the tank and the reserve 4 litres would surely only do 80km or so. It was going to be tight.

Pretty soon I was overtaken by a car, then saw in the mirrors, the northbound wide load and escort catching me up. An idea formed.

The escorting vehicle was a large van, a Mercedes Sprinter. As soon as he went by, I accelerated, using precious fuel but slotting in behind to slipstream. I stayed about 10 metres or less and could feel a bit of buffeting, but little oncoming wind. They were travelling at 95kph.

The driver didn't seem to mind but the two trucks being escorted must have been curious as they closed up and followed quite close behind. This was a little disconcerting as I knew I was going to run out of fuel very soon and would need to stop on the road. The gravel at the sides looked treacherous - all marbles.

Travelling this way the needle slowly edged into the E and I managed 65km before she quit. A fuel injected engine just runs out. No warning. I quickly pulled in the clutch and hit the left indicator. Luckily the trucks saw it and went around me as I coasted to a halt on the very edge of the tar.

Out with the spare fuel and carefully put it in the tank. It brought the level up to just above one bar - just above where the warning light comes on. GPS said 81km to go.

Off I went and as I brought it up to speed I noticed lights in the mirrors. Bewdy - another vehicle to slipstream. I kept it to under 90kph and the big Western Star towing two trailers went out around. I waved and he honked hello. I pulled in behind and accelerated to keep up. 101kph this time. Hope this works.

After very few kays that darn warning light came on again. Nothing to do but hang in there. Every now and then the truck would pull out to the right and check his mirrors to see if I was still there. He was looking after me. After 40 kays went by the gauge was still above where it was at Paynes Find, so i was pretty sure I'd make it. And I did, with one litre to spare. Mount magnet could have been another 18-20 kays away and I still would have made it.

Time to fuel right up, find a beer, meal and a bed.

I took some pics:

Heading north out of Perth - big trucks abound

Inland or coast. I chose inland

Lovely weather, beautiful sky, lonely roads

New Norcia - one of the many cathedrals

A bit of rain and a long way to go

Two wide loads passing

My escort vehicle until I ran out - I can hear the GoldWing jokes already

Following the truck with that pesky fuel light glowing

Around Oz Days 18-25 7-14 March 2010 - 1269 km

Sorry about no posting for the last week but it has been a full-on time with lots to see and do and people to catch up with. Meetings and dinners to attend and generally have a great time.

If you have been watching the SPOT you'll have seen it locating all around Albany, WA

We are now back in Perth and Charleen flies home this morning. The bike goes in for its 6,000km service (7,5000km actually) before I head north this arvo.

Should have some time to myself so I'll put together a few photos of the week very soon.

Around Oz Day 17 - 6 March 2010 - 335km

I've got my riding buddy with me!! Woo Hoo

As well as GoldBear of course.

Had a nice morning with Cranky, Ann and the kids. Excellent hosts. We went to pick up Charleen at the airport and then back for lunch. Cranky also showed me a ride through to Albany away from and almost parallel to the busy Albany Highway.

Only problem was I got a little mixed up with the names. We followed the instructions to Brookton, then got confused between Narrogin and Corrigin and picked the wrong one.
It was an excellent ride out to Corrigin through the southern Wheat belt. Good roads with almost no traffic. We got there a little late, but upon searching, there was no accommodation available in the town (one motel and one pub) as a roadworks crew was in town.

So nothing but retrace our steps a bit then turn towards Narrogin, 116km away. In all the confusion, I forgot to fuel up, so the last 30 or so kays into the strong wind were a bit apprehensive.

But we got there with the gauge resting on the E, found a motel, which it turns out is run by a Ulyssean, and settled in for the night.

Albany tomorrow.

On the road to Brookton

Ag display - old methods of wheat-carting

Picturesque Brookton Station

Lots of road like this look the same - easy to get lost.

Around Oz Day 16 - 5 March 2010 - 549km

Just a short day today. The road from Coolgardie to Perth is not too inspiring. Long straights lined with salmon gums and just a few towns.

It only took a few hours of riding and listening to podcasts to get to Northam where I called in to see Fattymick, fellow FarRider. It was our first chance to have a good chat. Then the short run in to Perth where I had arranged to stay overnight with another FarRiding mate, Cranky.

First though, I gave the bike a good tub at a carwash. Well I do have to show it off to Charleen tomorrow.

Spent the evening with more local people at an Indian restaurant. Great food, great people. Good times.

Just a couple of pics:

This OKA dealership brought back good memories

Coolgardie has nice wide streets

The rest of the 500+ km in to Perth looks pretty much like this.

Around Oz Day 15 - 4 March 2010 - 1838km

Yep it was a big day. Our FarRiders group promotes safe long distance riding and one of the regular rides is called a SaddleSore1600KM where we do 1600km in under 24 hours.
There are specific rules and not exceeding the speed limit is one of them. The ride is done by minimising lost time at fuel stops and breaks.

This ride didn't qualify under the rules for several reasons. But it was fun to do and certainly one of the easiest ways to do 1600km in a day, getting up with the sun and heading directly west gives you daylight all day. All the road was 110km limit too. When I had finished the 1671km from Pt Augusta to Norseman I still felt OK so continued on to Coolgardie for the night. Might sleep in tomorrow.

I did start out in the dark, with the recently full moon behind and Southern Cross high in the sky to show the way. I saw 3 foxes, 3 kangaroos, 2 bunnies, 1 sheep and 1 calf in the excellent headlights of the big Honda, but only the bunnies ran out on the road. I missed them.

Then it was just ride all day. Quite a few Ulysseans on the road which made fuelling up fun as there were always several bikes waiting at every pump. Their numbers will swell over the weekend. The Border Village servo bloke said all the servos across The Paddock are worried their food and drink supplies will not last the weekend.

During the afternoon the wind came up and was blowing quite strongly from the south-west making riding a bit hard going and consequently the fuel use went up. I am carrying 5 litres spare so was not worried, but only just made it from Caiguna, 365km in to Norseman, the bike running out as I coasted in to the servo. It will normally do over 400km.

The run in to Coolgardie was better with a tail wind. Dark fell again, but I saw no wildlife on this part.

Took a few piccies on the run:

Good Morning Sunshine

A bit of morning fog

Turned in to a beautiful day

On to the Nullarbor Plain - everyone takes this shot.

Long straight road.

Saw the Southern Ocean

From Eucla Pass

Around Oz Day 14 - 3 March 2010 - 325km

An easy day today, just to Port Augusta and do some washing and get some rest before a long run tomorrow.

Packed up the tent and got under way at around 8am local time. In to Lyndoch for some fuel then on to Tanunda for some brekky. Travelled through lots of wine country again, from the Barossa Valley to the Clare Valley and then some. All the vines look in good nick, contrasting the general countryside which is very dry. Pretty normal for this time of year.

Then I went up the eastern side of the southern Flinders Ranges to Wilmington where I turned west and through Horrocks Pass. As this will probably the last bits of properly bendy road I go on for quite a while, I did a quick run through, turned around and went back to the cairn at the top, got a piccy and down again. A bit slower to take some photos.

Quite some time ago, FarRider founder, Davo took a photo of his bike with the Flinders as a backdrop and challenged the rest of us to try to get one the same. After all this time I finally got here, found the spot (it has since been marked by other FarRiders) and set about getting the shot. Whilst going through them I found I had the bike turned too far side-on so it isn't marvellous. But a nice shot anyway.

Then it was a quick run in to Port Augusta to wash and now get some shut-eye. Leaving early in the morning.

Here's Pics: